Indigo Blue

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               It has often been said through the years that great things come in small packages. McCormick County, South Carolina is a prime example of this old adage. When looking through an atlas to find the population or area of counties in South Carolina you will find McCormick County dead last in both categories. The county measures a mere 360 square miles with a population that hovers just above 10,000. McCormick is one of the most isolated areas of the state, where interstates have not yet ventured. Herein lies the charm of a place where gold was once king and natural beauty abounds at every turn. McCormick County,” The Gem of the Freshwater Coast”, is an outdoor paradise that features three state parks, charming small town life, ample hunting ground and scenic Lake Thurmond.

     The county seat  is the town of McCormick. The town was named for Cyrus McCormick, the man who invented the mechanical reaper. McCormick County has many different attractions and historic sites that stand the test of time. The John de la Howe School was founded in 1797 to help the less fortunate children of the Old 96 District. Originally called the Lethe Agricultural Seminary, the school served as an orphanage and school in Abbeville County. After years of service the school closed twice following the tough economic times of post-Civil War South Carolina. In 1918 the school became a state agency and was renamed for the philanthropic John de la Howe. The school was moved to McCormick County near the community of Bordeaux. Today the school enrolls approximately 150 adolescents from families that need the services of this truly important school. Maxi and I have bought crafts made by the students and faculty here on past visits to de la Howe. We wanted to give our personal thanks to everyone involved with this inspiring institution.

     Located ten miles south of McCormick is the tranquil town of Parksville. Here you’ll find Price’s Mill, a water powered grist mill located next to Stevens Creek. David Calliham built the first grist mill here in the 1770’s. The current mill was constructed in 1890. The mill is named for R.A. Price, a man who was passionate about his job. Price often worked six or seven days each week to make sure the mill was running at full capacity. He ran the mill from 1910 until his son John took over the business many years later. In it’s hay day Price’s Mill produced six tons of cornmeal each week. Time and progress saw the decline of the grist mill in South Carolina. This rustic mill recently ceased it’s operation but still holds historical significance to the town of Parksville and McCormick County. Price’s Mill was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1972.

     Another site of historical significance is the Long Cane Massacre. From 1759-61 the backcountry of South Carolina was the scene of the bloody Cherokee War. In February of 1760 nearly 150 settlers were ambushed by Cherokee Indian Warriors as they fled by wagon train to Fort Moore, near Augusta. The settlers had received a tip of the planned attack, but the party was filled with expectant mothers and young children that slowed the pace of the caravan. According to many accounts the Cherokee, who had tracked the settlers with no rest, almost gave up their pursuit. As they began to turn back they heard the rustling wagon train in the far distance and pushed forward. In a bloody melee that lasted about an hour, twenty three settlers were killed along with many wounded. Several children were taken prisoner. Among the dead was 76 year old Catherine Calhoun, grandmother of  John C. Calhoun. It was a sad twist of fate. If the settlers had departed just minutes earlier this story would not be found in history books.

    Indigo Blue made a visit to McCormick County on September 19-20, 2009 to cover the Gold Rush Festival and attend an annual family reunion. The trip from Greenville to McCormick is nearly two hours. You pass through small towns and countryside the entire way. We enjoyed driving past the picturesque Erskine College campus in the town of Due West and much beautiful countryside.  It’s nice to know so much undeveloped land still exists. Here concrete doesn’t dominate the landscape like it does in the city. When we arrived in McCormick we saw signs promoting the 32nd Annual Gold Rush Festival. This festival is one we have grown to love over the past four years, as it falls on the same weekend as our family reunion. McCormick is normally a quiet town that has a certain peace about it. The Gold Rush weekend is a time when McCormick is filled with entertainment, arts & crafts, a barbecue cookoff and people eager to pan for gold.

     Despite the forecast of scattered showers throughout the day the crowds showed up in full force for this year’s Gold Rush. The usual vendors lined the historic district, hoping for good business in a tough economy. This year’s festival started with the annual downtown parade. Several musical acts entertained guests of all ages in the park, highlighted by the Zoe Belly Dancing Troupe from Greenwood and the Wideman Family. We met several friendly vendors as we strolled the streets of McCormick. The MACK was having a silent auction for many impressive pieces of art. MACK stands for  McCormick Arts Council at the Keturah. The MACK was originally the Keturah Hotel, owned by William Conner and his wife Mary Keturah Conner. Today the MACK is the center of art and culture in McCormick. Almost directly across the street stands Strom’s Drug Store. Strom’s features a 100 year old soda fountain that serves up fountain drinks and shakes like the good ol’ days. Unfortunately we arrived just minutes after they had closed for the day, but next year will bring new opportunities.

    This year’s Gold Rush also featured a Classic Car Show. I will admit I am not a vintage car enthusiast, but I do appreciate the time and effort the owners put into restoring their timeless automobiles. One of the best displays at the festival was a license plate collection like I’ve never seen. A gentleman there had a wall of plates that spanned South Carolina’s entire license tag history. It was so interesting to see how these tags had evolved since 1917! At the end of the days festivities our family convened at Little Italy Pizzeria. Little Italy serves up savory Italian food that is reasonably priced. The whole family enjoyed the entrees, service and atmosphere at Little Italy. The next day Maxi and I knew we still had a lot left to cover in the area. Our first item on the agenda was panning for gold. Let’s face it, you can’t come to McCormick without hoping for prospects of gold! McCormick sits above nearly five miles of tunnels from past gold mines.

     We arrived at the Heritage Gold Mine Park to mine for gold and tour the site. In August of 2009, management was taken over by the husband and wife team of Dave and Chris Gray. Chris took us on a tour of the mine and gave us a great perspective of 19th Century Gold Mining. Dave showed us the delicate steps involved with proper gold and gem mining. McCormick became famous for gold in 1852 when William Dorn, an Edgefield County farmer, discovered the second largest vein of gold in the state. Dorn brought in nearly one million dollars in profit during his excavation. He became a very wealthy man in those years leading up to the Civil War. When South Carolina seceded from the Union,  Billy Dorn became an ardent supporter of the Confederate Army. He outfitted the entire 15th South Carolina Regiment, dubbed “Dorn’s Invincibles”. While generous to a fault, this kind of spending left Mr. Dorn nearly destitute. In 1871 Cyrus McCormick bought Dorn’s mines and many surrounding acres of land. McCormick spent close to $200,000 on the mines over the next decade, hoping to replicate the success of William Dorn. While McCormick never had substantial success with the mines he made a profound impression on the area. In the early 1880’s Cyrus auctioned off 40 acres of land to set up a town less than a mile from the mine. He also donated land to build churches and a local school. McCormick  persuaded the railroad company to come through the town, helping to boost the economy. The citizens of the town thanked Cyrus McCormick and his wife Nettie for their generous gifts by changing the name of Dorn’s Mine Post Office to McCormick.

     At the end of our tour we went to photograph a couple of McCormick’s famous historic sites. First on the agenda was the home of Senator Joseph Jennings Dorn. Joseph Dorn served in the state senate from 1930-36. Dorn was nationally known for his testimony in the Lindbergh Baby Trial of 1935.  His life was cut short when he died in a tragic automobile accident the next year. Dorn’s Colonial Revival style home, built in 1917, was McCormick’s first home made of brick. Upon completion, the house had all the latest luxuries and upgrades of the time period. Today tours are held at the Dorn House on Friday and Saturday afternoons. Across the famous railroad tracks is the historic Dorn Mill. The SCDAH notes that the Dorn Mill “is an outstanding example of rural industrial architecture”. This gristmill, built in 1898, originally housed a cotton gin that became a flour and grist mill in the 1920’s. Through the years the mill ground commercial corn meal, flour from wheat for local farmers, as well as chicken feed. The mill closed in the 1940’s after nearly fifty years of operation. Today the mill’s machinery remains intact and well preserved. Dorn Mill was listed on the National Register in 1976.

     The last stop on our tour was Hickory Knob State Park. This sprawling park encompasses nearly 1100 acres along the shores of Lake Thurmond. Maxi and I have been to Hickory Knob more times than we can count. The outdoor activities at HKSP are seemingly endless. Golf enthusiasts can test their skill at the park’s challenging 18 hole course. The scenery here is magnificent as it winds through a pine forest along the shoreline of the lake. Rates here are very reasonable, even for tight budgets. Other outdoor activities include fishing, boating, archery, skeet shooting, tennis and swimming. Some of these activities cost a nominal fee. If you aren’t wild about the outdoors you will enjoy the fully equipped lodge at Hickory Knob. This newly renovated facility has many activities for a rainy day. The recreation room features two pool tables, a sleek high definition television and fireplace for the ultimate in relaxation. The gift shop here is very impressive. Various state park items and sundries are available during  business hours. At the south end of the lodge the Hickory Knob restaurant serves up fried chicken, hearty vegetables and ice cold sweet tea.

      One of the greatest features here is the lodging. Hickory Knob features 18 one room cabins, a four bedroom barrack and the rustic 18th Century Guillebeau House. The Guillebeau House is McCormick County’s oldest home. Andre Guillebeau, a French Huguenot, built this backcountry cabin for his family around 1770 in the colony of New Bordeaux. New Bordeaux was the last of seven Huguenot colonies in South Carolina. The colony was founded in 1764, led by Reverend Jean Louis Gibert. The Huguenots were hard working people who left France in search of religious freedom. Here they built a self-sustaining community that thrived for nearly two decades. They faced many hardships including Indian attacks and Tory raids during the American Revolution. The town began its decline after the war and became a ghost town by 1790. The historic Guillebeau House was moved to Hickory Knob State Park in 1983.  Our exciting weekend in McCormick County had finally come to a close. The warm September sun began to set, giving us our cue to head back to Greenville. We had thoroughly enjoyed our annual visit to this special place that many people overlook. If you’re searching for a little bit of gold, natural beauty and Southern hospitality you’ll find it here in McCormick County, a hidden gem on South Carolina’s Freshwater Coast.

For more information on McCormick County and the Gold Rush Festival call the McCormick County Chamber at (864) 852-2835, or visit their website at www.mccormickscchamber.org

For more information on Hickory Knob State Park call (864) 391-2450 or visit their website at www.southcarolinaparks.com

For more information on the Heritage Gold Mine Park visit their website at www.heritagegoldmine.com

To see pictures from our trip to McCormick County and the 2009 Gold Rush Festival click here.