Indigo Blue

     I have to admit I’m a little biased when it comes to Greenville. I first set eyes on the world here. Maxi and I were both born at Greenville General Hospital in the winter of 78-79. Most of our family lives here, including both sets of my grandparents. My grandmother loves reciting tales from Greenville’s good ol’ days. She often speaks of the classic Greenville High vs. Parker Thanksgiving football game. I too enjoyed my youth in Greenville. Twenty years ago Greenville still had a large town feeling to it, unlike the moderate sized city of today. I fondly recall going with my Mom to McAlister Square Mall. She always promised me Chick-fil-A and Baskin Robbins Ice Cream if I was patient while she shopped. Despite the smell coming from the sewage plant, I really miss going to Greenville Braves baseball games. The G-Braves were special to me in my youth. Watching Ron Gant, Tom Glavine and Javy Lopez baffle AA competition was mesmerizing. Watching Paladin Basketball with my grandparents at the Memorial Auditorium never got old. To me there was nothing like that cavernous building. I must say those fond memories will stay with me forever. 

   Times and people must change. I realize that the city once known as Pleasantburg had to grow up. Expansion and cultural diversity have ignited this beautiful and vibrant community. Downtown Greenville has received national critical acclaim for its recent revitalization. Cleveland Park and the Greenville Zoo remain local favorites. The new Liberty Bridge, Falls Park and Fluor Field illuminate Greenville’s West End. New restaurants and Greenville Drive Baseball have helped revive a once neglected area. Today, Greenville and the surrounding vicinity have blossomed into one of South Carolina’s largest metropolitan areas. Greenville County is the most populated county in the state, with recent estimates topping 438,000 residents. The county and her namesake are widely thought to be named for Revolutionary War Hero Nathaniel Greene. Greenville County was founded in 1786, just three years after the wars conclusion. Greene’s contribution as Southern Commander of the Continental Army, coupled with the original spelling (Greeneville) make this probability a foregone conclusion in my mind.

    Most people today assume that Greenville County was one of the Upcountry’s first settled counties, this is not so. The Great Wagon Road of the 1700’s followed the path that is currently I-77. European settlers traveled through present day York County, settling east and west of that location. Greenville County was strictly Indian Territory until the early 1770’s. History tells us that Richard Pearis “acquired title” to 100,000 acres in the heart of Greenville. Pearis quickly became the areas most influential settler. The American Revolution soon divided the Upcountry. Richard Pearis became an American Loyalist, or Tory. Loyalists were faithful to the British Crown. It is estimated that one in five white settlers were Tories. Richard Pearis soon left his home to fight. While he was away, his home, mill and store were burned by local enemies. In 1781, Patriot General Andrew Pickens saved this Tory’s life at the fall of Augusta, GA. Pickens put Pearis in a boat and sent him down the Savannah River, keeping him safe from harm. The Continentals would have killed Pearis if “The Wizard Owl” had not stepped in and shown him compassion. Pearis was no longer welcome in the place he loved. He spent the rest of his life as a planter in the Bahamas.

  Greenville County is home to many famous Sandlappers from the past and present. Some early names of influence include the aforementioned Richard Pearis, Lemual Alston, Elias Earle and Vardry McBee. Elias Earle served in the United States House of Representatives in the early 1800’s. Whitehall, Greenville’s oldest home, was built by Henry Middleton on land he purchased from Earle. Earle Street Historic District downtown is named for Colonel Earle. I am proud to be a direct descendant of this honorable man. Vardry McBee changed the culture in Greenville in many positive ways. He was a self made entrepreneur that repeatedly gave back to the community. McBee was responsible for considerable growth in Greenville during the first half of the 19th Century. A handsome statue of Mc Bee is just one of the many honors bestowed upon this local hero in the heart of downtown. For his selfless contributions to the city he is widely referred to as the ”Father of Greenville”.

   In late August 2009, Indigo Blue made two separate visits to revered stops in northern Greenville County. Living in the city you sometimes take for granted the sheer beauty located north of town. We headed for the picturesque mountains on a typically humid August afternoon. On the way up we passed the usual side of the road boiled peanuts signs. I don’t know if the South would be the same without those tempting summer snacks. Before we made our ascent up the mountain we stopped at Wildcat Falls. This is a great place to take a photo, hike or simply to cool your toes on a hot summer day. The ascent up the mountain is not for the faint of heart. The elevation change from the bottom of the mountain to Caesars Head State Park is around 1700 feet. I will admit the climb is taxing on your vehicle, but the scenery is worth it all. When we neared the top we made a stop at Bald Rock. Maxi and I foolishly spent New Year’s Eve freezing our tails off here in 2004. We watched the beautiful fireworks display from Greenville light up the night sky. Kids, don’t try this one. Not only was it cold, but dangerous as well. Maybe I don’t miss my 20’s as much as I thought I did!

     Once we left Bald Rock we headed for one of South Carolina’s most romantic and spiritual spots. Symmes Chapel, commonly known as “Pretty Place”, is located on the property of Camp Greenville. Maxi and I both went to Camp Greenville on school field trips in elementary school and junior high. Camp Greenville, a YMCA affiliate, celebrates its 100th Birthday in 2012. This deeply spiritual chapel, built in 1941, is so special to us. I know many South Carolinians that have made Pretty Place their wedding destination. This is the spot where I proposed to Maxi on February 1, 2004.  When we returned to this spot in August of 2009 the weather was simply perfect. As we arrived, I noticed the outdoor temperature on our Jeep read 65 degrees. This was down 23 degrees from the humid 88 when we left Downtown Greenville! I sat in quiet meditation as Maxi took photos of this Palmetto treasure. I do believe the good Lord spent a little extra time on the sweeping scenery here. After an hour of peaceful reflection we jumped back in the car to capture the summer sunset at Caesars Head State Park.

     Caesars Head State Park is a short 10-12 minute ride back towards Greenville from Pretty Place. Caesars Head has a strong argument for being the most beautiful state park in the Upcountry. CHSP has many exciting features for the outdoor enthusiast. There are several trails here that range from leisurely strolls to quite strenuous hikes. The most popular hike here at the park is a moderate two mile trek to South Carolina’s highest waterfall, Raven Cliff Falls. A suspension bridge offers up a pristine view of the 420 foot cascade. The best time to visit Raven Cliff Falls is in late October when the leaves are at their peak. Another unique activity during the fall at Caesars Head is the “Hawk Watch” program. Here you can watch hawks, eagles and falcons soar through the air as you watch in amazement at the overlook.

    When we arrived for sunset we were met with a mostly cloudy sky. The sun was hidden behind cumulus clouds on an otherwise pleasant evening. Maxi still took great shots of the view of Table Rock and the surrounding area. Moments before the sun sank into the mountain the clouds parted for the sun to make its last stand. It’s amazing how much light remains in the sky after the sun finds its resting place. We had a great conversation with one of the park rangers until the sky was pitch black. She pointed out all the places that the view from 3266 feet gave us. The South Carolina Parks, Recreation and Tourism needs to be commended for the people they hire. We have never met a park ranger that didn’t treat us with professionalism and courtesy. Our late afternoon and evening spent at Pretty Place and Caesars Head was one we will not soon forget.

     The following week Indigo Blue made a visit to Furman University. Founded in 1826, Furman is one of South Carolina’s top rated academic institutions. The home of the Paladins is one that will take your breath away with its scenery and serenity. The 750 acre campus is located about five miles north of downtown Greenville. Furman was founded in 1826 in Edgefield, South Carolina. The school was named for the first president of the Southern Baptist Convention, Richard Furman. Furman University has seen many homes during its 184 year history. After just three years in Edgefield, the school moved to the High Hills of Santee, near Stateburg. The school spent five years at this location before relocating to Winnsboro. Winnsboro was home to Furman for about fourteen years. Finally, in 1851 the school moved to Downtown Greenville. Now that Furman had a permanent home the school began to thrive. The downtown campus was a fixture in Greenville for 107 years. My grandparents fondly recall their days as students at the old campus. In 1958 Furman relocated to their present home near Travelers Rest. My Mom enjoyed matriculating here at the new campus. Five decades have passed since Furman arrived at this ideal location, but the quality of education remains constant.

    We brought our dog, Carolina, with us on our trip. Furman is very welcoming to the community. Many people that don’t attend the university will take daily walks around the campus or by the lake. We had a wonderful stroll around the campus informally dubbed as ”The Country Club of the South”. We passed by a relatively new Japanese Garden on our way to the lake. This garden was inspired by the special relationship Furman maintains with Kansai Gaidai University in Japan. The garden really speaks to the beauty and tranquility of Japan. After we left the garden we headed for the famed Furman Bell Tower. This tower stands as a shining beacon to the students of Furman on a stunning 30 acre lake. Every time you visit the lake two things are sure to happen. You will see swans gracefully cruising the lake hoping for morsels of food. You will also be bombarded by the geese that patrol the lake. These geese are territorial and definitely not shy. Luckily, we had our fearless five pound Chihuahua to “protect” us from our friends by the lake.

    Once we left the lake we encountered the timeless Janie Earle Furman Rose Garden. This never ending bouquet of flowers reminds one of Alice in Wonderland with a local touch. Many couples have their wedding ceremony here. We enjoyed the feeling one receives from the alluring beauty of the rose garden. On our way out we passed by Paladin Stadium. This has been the home of the Furman Football Team since 1981. Furman has appeared in three National Championship games since 1985. The Paladins defeated Georgia Southern for the 1-AA National Title in 1988. Furman is also known for their strong programs in Men’s Soccer and Women’s Golf. Furman alums Beth Daniel and Betsy King are two of the best golfers in the history of the LPGA. Soon the sun began to set and it was time to head home. I must say I’ve stepped foot on many beautiful campuses in my lifetime. Some of these schools include Yale, Virginia, Washington & Lee, & Georgetown. None of them top the 750 acre postcard known as Furman University.

To view a photo gallery of Caesars Head SP & Pretty Place please click HERE

To view a photo gallery of Furman University please click HERE

INDIGO BLUE NOTES: All of the attractions we visited in this post require no admission fee. (Well, except for gas and the side of the road boiled peanuts!)