The year was 1950. African Africans had spent centuries trying to find their place in a land where most had been forced to live. Many South Carolinians of color still felt the strains of slavery, though it had been 85 years since the institution’s abolishment. Most blacks in the Deep South had very few civil rights at this time. Segregation kept African Americans from using the same facilities as whites. Jackie Robinson had just broken the color barrier in Major League Baseball, but many struggles were waiting in the wings. Deep in the heart of Florence County, a child was born whose many goals would include reaching the moon. His life was cut short by tragedy, but his achievements are still remembered nearly a quarter of a century after his death. His name was Ronald McNair.

     Ronald Ervin McNair was born on October 21, 1950 to Carl and Pearl McNair in Lake City, South Carolina. The McNairs led a working class life in a home filled with love. Carl McNair was an auto body repairman and Pearl taught at a local high school. The young McNair learned to read and write by the time he was three years old. It became evident at an early age that Ronald was destined for something special. McNair was always ahead of his classmates in school. Ron was rarely challenged in school until he reached college. The example he set made other classmates strive to do their very best.  Hard work at home helped keep the gifted McNair humble. Ronald picked cotton and harvested tobacco to help his family through tough financial times. His dad taught him the trade of auto body work so Ronald would have something to fall back on. McNair’s dreams reached far and wide. Many children of the time rarely, if ever, left the Pee Dee for vacation in McNair’s youth. Ronald wasn’t about to settle for a trip to the mountains or the beach. McNair’s expansive mind dreamed of reaching the edges of our solar system.

    As a young man, Ronald became fascinated with science and space exploration. Sputnik was launched when he was in elementary school. The so called “space race” between the Soviets and Americans captivated many people across the globe. To say Ronald McNair was fascinated would be an understatement. By high school the Florence County native had many interests. Along with his many academic achievements, he excelled in athletics. McNair excelled in football, boxing, running and karate. He later became a fifth-degree black belt in this traditional martial art, winning several competitions in the process. To complete his myriad talents he also became an accomplished musician. Ronald graduated from segregated Carver High School in 1967 at the age of 16. To no one’s surprise, he was named the school’s valedictorian. McNair received a full scholarship from North Carolina A&T University. After a successful four year college career he graduated magna cum laude in 1971 with a degree in physics. Ronald soon embarked on a journey that seemed impossible for a young black man who grew up in the segregated South. He received a scholarship to the prestigious Massachusetts Institute of Technology. M.I.T was the first time the confident young man from Lake City felt intimidation.

    McNair refused to give in to the rigors of M.I.T. It would simply be out of his character to give in to such a daunting task. Ronald excelled at the prestigious Boston school. He had hoped to receive his doctorate ten years after graduating from high school. During his time at M.I.T. Ronald worked with some of the top names in physics. His work involving chemical and high-pressure lasers impressed the top brass at the school. McNair worked tirelessly on completion of his doctoral thesis. He tragically lost two years of work as he neared the finish line. Most of the general population would have backed down in a situation like this. Three months later McNair had somehow come up with a thesis even better than the first. His thesis was featured in several publications across the nation. The man that had all the odds stacked against him received his doctorate from M.I.T. in 1976. He was only 25 years of age. After graduation, Ronald McNair accepted a position at Hughes Research Laboratories in upscale Malibu, California.

     The next year brought a new challenge to the man who accomplished more in a quarter century than most do in three lifetimes. He was invited by NASA to apply for the national space program. Ten thousand people applied for this unbelievable opportunity. In the end, thirty five people were selected. Among the names called was Ronald Ervin McNair. Mere months before he began his year long training with NASA, he and his wife Cheryl were involved in a fairly serious car accident. He recovered on schedule and took his position with NASA. Dr. McNair made his first space flight in 1984 in a shuttle that later made history, Challenger. He became only the second African American to travel in outer space. The mission orbited earth more than 120 times. The rest of the crew enjoyed the humor and good spirit that carried Ronald McNair in his life. Known as a devout Christian, he credited the Lord for the opportunities he received each and every day. Though he had been an integral part of NASA for several years, McNair contemplated a new challenge. He wanted to be closer to home and teach at the University of South Carolina. In the end Ronald decided to make one more voyage aboard the Challenger. It would be a mission forever remembered by South Carolinians and the world.

      Space travel had become fairly common throughout the decade of the 1980’s. NASA’s next mission would gain notoriety around the world for its first flight involving a civilian. Americans from coast to coast were glued to their televisions on the morning of January 28, 1986 to watch this historic event. Students nationwide were gathered in classrooms excited about seeing the Challenger launch. Most Americans were interested in the media frenzy that followed Christa McAuliffe. McAuliffe was a well respected teacher from Concord, NH. I personally remember my excitement and emotional state in Ms. Lanford’s first grade class at Summit Drive Elementary in Greenville. I was excited about seeing the first teacher in space, but I was also very proud of our native South Carolinian Ronald McNair. It was a clear and unseasonably cold morning in Central Florida. I’ll never forget the beauty and grace the Challenger displayed at liftoff. Our entire classroom clapped in anticipation of a wildly successful mission. Seventy three seconds later those innocent smiles turned to tears. The Challenger exploded violently, causing viewers everywhere to view an American tragedy on live television. All seven passengers aboard the shuttle perished when the crew cabin crashed into the Atlantic Ocean.

    Ronald McNair’s short life ended reaching for the stars. He touched so many lives in the 35 years he lived, including my own. His determination and work ethic brought him praise from his peers, but his humility and deep faith brought him peace from within. Next year marks the 25th Anniversary of the Challenger tragedy. People have not forgotten the man from the Pee Dee whose smile was engaging and whose heart was tender. Memorials and schools have been named for Dr. McNair through the years. Ron also achieved the Order of the Palmetto, the state’s highest honor. McNair even has a crater on the moon named in his honor. McNair eternally rests in the town where it all started, Lake City. The town has a handsome monument to Dr. McNair detailing the many varied interests in his life. Ronald McNair Boulevard in Lake City is named for the town’s most celebrated citizen. McNair is survived by his wife Cheryl, and his two children Reginald and Joy.

     In reflection of his own successes McNair stated, “Whether or not you reach your goals in life depends entirely on how well you prepare for them and how badly you want them. You’re eagles! Stretch your wings and fly to the sky.” The life of Ronald McNair was first class in every sense of the word. In my opinion, Ron McNair is an easy choice as a Notable South Carolinian.

INDIGO BLUE NOTES: As most of you know, February is Black History Month. South Carolina, like most Deep South states, has had many people of color influence the history and landscape of our proud state. For many years blacks were treated as second class citizens in South Carolina. Ronald McNair was one of the many African Americans who have risen above the scars that history had left for them. Let us remember that although this month is designated for observance, the sacrifice that so many have made in the pursuit of liberty and justice should be noted year round.

     The trip from Greenville to York consists mostly of freeway travel along Interstate 85 North. The big finale here is an eighteen mile straightaway through the country on SC Hwy. 5. The hustle and bustle of I-85 includes a splendid view of one of South Carolina’s most recognizable sites, the Gaffney Peachoid. Just before you enter the town limits of York you will see the sign to Windy Hill Orchard and Cider Mill on the left. Windy Hill Orchard is a family run business, founded by Fritz and Catherine Gusmer. Windy Hill is South Carolina’s only working orchard and cider mill. There are many activities at the orchard that are sure to please the whole family. Apple picking is permitted from early September through mid-October. You are welcome to pick your own apples here at Windy Hill for five dollars a bag. Other activities at Windy Hill Orchard include hay rides, educational farm tours and stories from “Johnny Appleseed”. The store at Windy Hill sells everything from apple cider to fried pies. The orchard is also known for their Apple Butter and Apple Butter Barbecue Sauce. Don’t forget to try the enticing cider doughnuts if you have a sweet tooth! Windy Hill also houses small farm animals here. We saw two tiny piglets that were absolutely adorable. Children enjoy the interaction with these residents of the orchard. The Apple Harvest Festival is held each October at Windy Hill Orchard and Cider Mill. This has been a York County favorite for nearly two decades. The orchard is open to the public from August through December.

     We departed Windy Hill and headed toward another favorite local orchard. This orchard is home to South Carolina’s signature fruit, the peach. The Peach Tree Orchards is located four miles north of York in the community of Filbert. This location makes you feel like you are getting away from it all. Both sides of the road reminded me why I love the rolling hills of the Carolina Piedmont. Minutes later we arrived at this revered York County landmark. The Peach Tree Orchards is everything you remember about America before cell phones and navigation systems became necessities. The Smith Family has owned this York County treasure since the 1960’s. Merwyn and Ben Smith, Jr. take great pride in their work. The staff here will charm you with a sweet drawl and Southern Hospitality. The peach orchards here span 125 acres and produce 25 different types of peaches. You are welcome to pick your own peaches when they are in season.

    The heart of the property is the place to explore the general store and ice cream parlor. They sell assorted jams, jellies and vegetables at the store. If you make your visit in October you can buy various sizes of pumpkins and gourds. On our trip we bought an attractive white “ghost” pumpkin. The ice cream parlor at The Peach Tree is a hit. Visitors young and old roam the property with smiles (and ice cream) on their faces. The varieties here include the Andes Candies Sundae, the Tangy Sherbet Float and the classic Peach Milkshake. We watched parents outside playfully chasing their kids through the hay bail maze in front of the general store. The Peach Tree truly epitomizes family fun. The sun shared its rays of light with the orange pumpkins and patchwork scarecrows on this beautiful autumn afternoon. We could have spent hours here at the Peach Tree, but it was time to head to Kings Mountain National Military Park. The Peach Tree Orchards is a stop that you don’t want to miss when passing through York County.

     The drive from FiIbert to Kings Mountain State and National Parks is breathtaking in the fall. Kings Mountain National Park looks like it belongs in the historical drama “The Patriot”. The fall scenery here is something you simply have to experience for yourself. It also benefits one to come in October for the authenticity of the battle. The “Gettysburg of the Revolution” was fought here on October 7, 1780. This was not a fight that pitted American Patriots against British Redcoats. This was a skirmish fought mostly between Patriots and Loyalists. The Tories were led by Major Patrick Ferguson, a Scottish gentleman that Redcoats and Loyalists both admired. Ferguson and Captain Abraham DePeyster would lead them into battle. This was a fight that the Continentals were well prepared for. They were led by Isaac Shelby, John Sevier, Benjamin Cleveland and James Williams, among others. Patriot forces crushed the Loyalists here in a battle that only lasted 65 minutes.

    After the Continental Army plowed through Loyalist lines time and again the Tories gave their signal of surrender. Unfortunately, bad blood from the past had reached its boiling point. Patriot forces remembered the Waxhaw Massacre of May 1780. In that gruesome battle Banastre Tarleton and his dragoons gave little mercy to Abraham Buford’s men. At first they were reluctant to take any prisoners, repeatedly shouting “Give them Tarleton’s quarter!” The battle quickly became a bloodbath. After a second attempt by the Loyalists to surrender, the Patriots finally held their fire. When the smoke cleared the tattered Continentals had found themselves victorious in the most pivotal battle our young nation had ever seen. The difference in casualties between the two armies was staggering. The Loyalists suffered 1,100 losses including those killed, wounded or captured. The most notable loss was the gallant Patrick Ferguson. Major Ferguson was shot out of the saddle, receiving between eight to twelve musket shots to the body. His corpse was found later stripped and mistreated. Patriot casualties totaled less than 100. One of the Patriots killed in the battle was a brave South Carolinian, Colonel James Williams. The Battle of Kings Mountain was a great victory in the pursuit of liberty, yet many lives were lost. Through all these trials America was squarely on the cusp of being an independent nation. Thanks should be given to those who gave their lives for causes they believed in at Kings Mountain. We gave them a salute as we headed next door to Kings Mountain State Park.

    Kings Mountain State Park is one of South Carolina’s oldest state parks. This park, known for its deep woods and rugged hills, was built in 1934 by the Civilian Conservation Corps. Carolina residents have enjoyed this rustic state park for many years. Kings Mountain has many attractions that keep visitors of all ages entertained. The most memorable attraction at the park is the Living History Farm. This farm is a splendid reproduction of an early 19th Century Carolina Piedmont Farm. Here you will find buildings that authenticate rural life from past generations. Some of these buildings include a cotton gin, blacksmith shop and a barn. A late October afternoon spent here is pure bliss. The grass here is emerald green. The mountains present a lovely background to this old standby. The animals here don’t seem to mind visitors at all. We thoroughly enjoyed petting the old barn cats. One particular tabby cat seemed to pose for Maxi as her picture was taken. The horses came right up to the fence so we could get a closer look at them. Being from the city, I was in awe of this laid back atmosphere and way of life. The living history farm was closing for the day so we made our way to the car. We said our goodbyes to all the animals in hopes of seeing them in years to come.

    There are many other activities that make Kings Mountain State Park popular for Upcountry South Carolinians. Avid fishermen will enjoy wetting a hook on the parks two lakes. Lake York encompasses approximately 65 acres, while Lake Crawford’s size is only a fraction of its counterpart. Some of the fish you may catch here include bass, bream, crappie and catfish. Nature enthusiasts will enjoy the many miles of trails at KMSP for walking and horseback riding. The park features a 1.5 mile nature trail for the casual stroll, while the more experienced hiker will enjoy the park’s sixteen mile loop. There are rustic group cabins at Camp Cherokee and Camp York. Both camps can accommodate over 100 people. The camps are equipped with a mess hall and clean bathhouse. Tent and RV Camping are also permitted at the park. Reservations can be made by phone or by the parks website. Private boats are not allowed at either lake, but small non-motorized fishing boats can be rented for $20. Pedal boats and canoes can be rented on a seasonal basis at Lake Crawford. Picnic areas and shelters allow for families to get together for reunions or birthdays. Another interesting activity at the park is the annual fall festival. This reflection on the past is held at the Living History Farm in mid-October. Historical interpreters demonstrate 19th Century crafts and trades, while vendors and hayrides keep children’s attention spans buzzing for hours. Standing tall like the forest that surrounds her borders, Kings Mountain State Park has given a lifetime of smiles to all that experience her rugged charm. We enjoyed everything she had to offer at every turn. I hope she continues to share her beauty with us for many years to come.

    We left Kings Mountain State Park as the autumn sun began its descent. Stray leaves began to fall from the trees as we drove down the lonely road that exited the park. It was a day that exceeded our lofty expectations. Thoreau and Frost would have enjoyed this day immensely. We began our trek down I-85 on our way back to Greenville. I thought to myself, this is what fall is all about. This is a yearly pilgrimage that any family would thoroughly enjoy. This is South Carolina.

To see photos of our trip to Kings Mountain National Military Park, The Peach Tree Orchards and Windy Hill Orchard please click on the York County gallery HERE

To see photos of our trip to Kings Mountain State Park please click HERE

For more information on Windy Hill Orchard please visit their web site at www.windyhillorchard.com, or call them directly at (803) 684-0690

For more information on The Peach Tree Orchards please visit their website at www.thepeachtreeorchards.com, or call them directly at (803) 684-9996.

For more information on Kings Mountain National Military Park please visit their website at www.nps.gov/kimo/, or call them directly at (864) 936-7921.

For more information on Kings Mountain State Park please visit their website at www.southcarolinaparks.com or call them directly at (803) 222-3209.

Admission to Kings Mountain SP- Adults- $2.00      SC Seniors- $1.25      Kids 15 & Under-FREE

INDIGO BLUE NOTES: John Crockett, father of Davey Crockett, fought for the Patriot side in the Battle of Kings Mountain. Colonel James Williams of Laurens County, mortally wounded at the Battle of King’s Mountain, was given the rank of Brigadier General by Governor John Rutledge. An interesting fact I found on the National Parks website tells you how Patriots and Loyalists told each other apart in the battle. “The Patriots wore white paper in their hats, the Loyalists used a pine sprig in their hats.” Lastly, all Americans should thank Patrick Ferguson for his ethical behavior as a soldier. Before the Battle of Brandywine in 1777, Ferguson and his sharp shooters were scouting Patriot lines when they spotted a French Officer and a Continental Army Officer. The Continental Officer happened to be General George Washington.  Though Ferguson did not know the identity of Washington, he and his men could have killed the “Father of our Country” with ease. Ferguson stuck to his code of ethics, vowing not to shoot an enemy officer in the back. Without the leadership of George Washington, American History would be missing its most vital link.

     I have to admit I’m a little biased when it comes to Greenville. I first set eyes on the world here. Maxi and I were both born at Greenville General Hospital in the winter of 78-79. Most of our family lives here, including both sets of my grandparents. My grandmother loves reciting tales from Greenville’s good ol’ days. She often speaks of the classic Greenville High vs. Parker Thanksgiving football game. I too enjoyed my youth in Greenville. Twenty years ago Greenville still had a large town feeling to it, unlike the moderate sized city of today. I fondly recall going with my Mom to McAlister Square Mall. She always promised me Chick-fil-A and Baskin Robbins Ice Cream if I was patient while she shopped. Despite the smell coming from the sewage plant, I really miss going to Greenville Braves baseball games. The G-Braves were special to me in my youth. Watching Ron Gant, Tom Glavine and Javy Lopez baffle AA competition was mesmerizing. Watching Paladin Basketball with my grandparents at the Memorial Auditorium never got old. To me there was nothing like that cavernous building. I must say those fond memories will stay with me forever. 

   Times and people must change. I realize that the city once known as Pleasantburg had to grow up. Expansion and cultural diversity have ignited this beautiful and vibrant community. Downtown Greenville has received national critical acclaim for its recent revitalization. Cleveland Park and the Greenville Zoo remain local favorites. The new Liberty Bridge, Falls Park and Fluor Field illuminate Greenville’s West End. New restaurants and Greenville Drive Baseball have helped revive a once neglected area. Today, Greenville and the surrounding vicinity have blossomed into one of South Carolina’s largest metropolitan areas. Greenville County is the most populated county in the state, with recent estimates topping 438,000 residents. The county and her namesake are widely thought to be named for Revolutionary War Hero Nathaniel Greene. Greenville County was founded in 1786, just three years after the wars conclusion. Greene’s contribution as Southern Commander of the Continental Army, coupled with the original spelling (Greeneville) make this probability a foregone conclusion in my mind.

    Most people today assume that Greenville County was one of the Upcountry’s first settled counties, this is not so. The Great Wagon Road of the 1700’s followed the path that is currently I-77. European settlers traveled through present day York County, settling east and west of that location. Greenville County was strictly Indian Territory until the early 1770’s. History tells us that Richard Pearis “acquired title” to 100,000 acres in the heart of Greenville. Pearis quickly became the areas most influential settler. The American Revolution soon divided the Upcountry. Richard Pearis became an American Loyalist, or Tory. Loyalists were faithful to the British Crown. It is estimated that one in five white settlers were Tories. Richard Pearis soon left his home to fight. While he was away, his home, mill and store were burned by local enemies. In 1781, Patriot General Andrew Pickens saved this Tory’s life at the fall of Augusta, GA. Pickens put Pearis in a boat and sent him down the Savannah River, keeping him safe from harm. The Continentals would have killed Pearis if “The Wizard Owl” had not stepped in and shown him compassion. Pearis was no longer welcome in the place he loved. He spent the rest of his life as a planter in the Bahamas.

  Greenville County is home to many famous Sandlappers from the past and present. Some early names of influence include the aforementioned Richard Pearis, Lemual Alston, Elias Earle and Vardry McBee. Elias Earle served in the United States House of Representatives in the early 1800’s. Whitehall, Greenville’s oldest home, was built by Henry Middleton on land he purchased from Earle. Earle Street Historic District downtown is named for Colonel Earle. I am proud to be a direct descendant of this honorable man. Vardry McBee changed the culture in Greenville in many positive ways. He was a self made entrepreneur that repeatedly gave back to the community. McBee was responsible for considerable growth in Greenville during the first half of the 19th Century. A handsome statue of Mc Bee is just one of the many honors bestowed upon this local hero in the heart of downtown. For his selfless contributions to the city he is widely referred to as the ”Father of Greenville”.

   In late August 2009, Indigo Blue made two separate visits to revered stops in northern Greenville County. Living in the city you sometimes take for granted the sheer beauty located north of town. We headed for the picturesque mountains on a typically humid August afternoon. On the way up we passed the usual side of the road boiled peanuts signs. I don’t know if the South would be the same without those tempting summer snacks. Before we made our ascent up the mountain we stopped at Wildcat Falls. This is a great place to take a photo, hike or simply to cool your toes on a hot summer day. The ascent up the mountain is not for the faint of heart. The elevation change from the bottom of the mountain to Caesars Head State Park is around 1700 feet. I will admit the climb is taxing on your vehicle, but the scenery is worth it all. When we neared the top we made a stop at Bald Rock. Maxi and I foolishly spent New Year’s Eve freezing our tails off here in 2004. We watched the beautiful fireworks display from Greenville light up the night sky. Kids, don’t try this one. Not only was it cold, but dangerous as well. Maybe I don’t miss my 20’s as much as I thought I did!

     Once we left Bald Rock we headed for one of South Carolina’s most romantic and spiritual spots. Symmes Chapel, commonly known as “Pretty Place”, is located on the property of Camp Greenville. Maxi and I both went to Camp Greenville on school field trips in elementary school and junior high. Camp Greenville, a YMCA affiliate, celebrates its 100th Birthday in 2012. This deeply spiritual chapel, built in 1941, is so special to us. I know many South Carolinians that have made Pretty Place their wedding destination. This is the spot where I proposed to Maxi on February 1, 2004.  When we returned to this spot in August of 2009 the weather was simply perfect. As we arrived, I noticed the outdoor temperature on our Jeep read 65 degrees. This was down 23 degrees from the humid 88 when we left Downtown Greenville! I sat in quiet meditation as Maxi took photos of this Palmetto treasure. I do believe the good Lord spent a little extra time on the sweeping scenery here. After an hour of peaceful reflection we jumped back in the car to capture the summer sunset at Caesars Head State Park.

     Caesars Head State Park is a short 10-12 minute ride back towards Greenville from Pretty Place. Caesars Head has a strong argument for being the most beautiful state park in the Upcountry. CHSP has many exciting features for the outdoor enthusiast. There are several trails here that range from leisurely strolls to quite strenuous hikes. The most popular hike here at the park is a moderate two mile trek to South Carolina’s highest waterfall, Raven Cliff Falls. A suspension bridge offers up a pristine view of the 420 foot cascade. The best time to visit Raven Cliff Falls is in late October when the leaves are at their peak. Another unique activity during the fall at Caesars Head is the “Hawk Watch” program. Here you can watch hawks, eagles and falcons soar through the air as you watch in amazement at the overlook.

    When we arrived for sunset we were met with a mostly cloudy sky. The sun was hidden behind cumulus clouds on an otherwise pleasant evening. Maxi still took great shots of the view of Table Rock and the surrounding area. Moments before the sun sank into the mountain the clouds parted for the sun to make its last stand. It’s amazing how much light remains in the sky after the sun finds its resting place. We had a great conversation with one of the park rangers until the sky was pitch black. She pointed out all the places that the view from 3266 feet gave us. The South Carolina Parks, Recreation and Tourism needs to be commended for the people they hire. We have never met a park ranger that didn’t treat us with professionalism and courtesy. Our late afternoon and evening spent at Pretty Place and Caesars Head was one we will not soon forget.

     The following week Indigo Blue made a visit to Furman University. Founded in 1826, Furman is one of South Carolina’s top rated academic institutions. The home of the Paladins is one that will take your breath away with its scenery and serenity. The 750 acre campus is located about five miles north of downtown Greenville. Furman was founded in 1826 in Edgefield, South Carolina. The school was named for the first president of the Southern Baptist Convention, Richard Furman. Furman University has seen many homes during its 184 year history. After just three years in Edgefield, the school moved to the High Hills of Santee, near Stateburg. The school spent five years at this location before relocating to Winnsboro. Winnsboro was home to Furman for about fourteen years. Finally, in 1851 the school moved to Downtown Greenville. Now that Furman had a permanent home the school began to thrive. The downtown campus was a fixture in Greenville for 107 years. My grandparents fondly recall their days as students at the old campus. In 1958 Furman relocated to their present home near Travelers Rest. My Mom enjoyed matriculating here at the new campus. Five decades have passed since Furman arrived at this ideal location, but the quality of education remains constant.

    We brought our dog, Carolina, with us on our trip. Furman is very welcoming to the community. Many people that don’t attend the university will take daily walks around the campus or by the lake. We had a wonderful stroll around the campus informally dubbed as ”The Country Club of the South”. We passed by a relatively new Japanese Garden on our way to the lake. This garden was inspired by the special relationship Furman maintains with Kansai Gaidai University in Japan. The garden really speaks to the beauty and tranquility of Japan. After we left the garden we headed for the famed Furman Bell Tower. This tower stands as a shining beacon to the students of Furman on a stunning 30 acre lake. Every time you visit the lake two things are sure to happen. You will see swans gracefully cruising the lake hoping for morsels of food. You will also be bombarded by the geese that patrol the lake. These geese are territorial and definitely not shy. Luckily, we had our fearless five pound Chihuahua to “protect” us from our friends by the lake.

    Once we left the lake we encountered the timeless Janie Earle Furman Rose Garden. This never ending bouquet of flowers reminds one of Alice in Wonderland with a local touch. Many couples have their wedding ceremony here. We enjoyed the feeling one receives from the alluring beauty of the rose garden. On our way out we passed by Paladin Stadium. This has been the home of the Furman Football Team since 1981. Furman has appeared in three National Championship games since 1985. The Paladins defeated Georgia Southern for the 1-AA National Title in 1988. Furman is also known for their strong programs in Men’s Soccer and Women’s Golf. Furman alums Beth Daniel and Betsy King are two of the best golfers in the history of the LPGA. Soon the sun began to set and it was time to head home. I must say I’ve stepped foot on many beautiful campuses in my lifetime. Some of these schools include Yale, Virginia, Washington & Lee, & Georgetown. None of them top the 750 acre postcard known as Furman University.

To view a photo gallery of Caesars Head SP & Pretty Place please click HERE

To view a photo gallery of Furman University please click HERE

INDIGO BLUE NOTES: All of the attractions we visited in this post require no admission fee. (Well, except for gas and the side of the road boiled peanuts!)

     Mary Boykin Miller was born on March 31, 1823 on her grandparents plantation near Stateburg, South Carolina. She was born to Mary Boykin and Stephen Decatur Miller. The Millers were prosperous and highly educated. Stephen Miller served in the House of Representatives before his election as Governor of South Carolina in 1828. Mary Miller was blessed with the tools to succeed at an early age. As an adolescent she displayed her high intellectual capacity and independent spirit. She was sent to a French Huguenot school in Charleston called Madame Talvande’s French School for Young Ladies. Here, the young Miller received an education that was unparalleled. Mary became fluent in German and French while discovering her talent for writing. She also developed a love for music and the arts. At the age of 13 she was introduced to James Chesnut, Jr. at her exclusive Charleston school. Chesnut, a native of Camden, was educated at the College of New Jersey. James hailed from one of the wealthiest families in Kershaw County. His father, James Sr., owned several local plantations. Despite an eight year age difference, Chesnut was smitten with Mary Boykin Miller.

    Mary Miller and James Chesnut became immediate friends. Soon a romance began to blossom. In the 1830’s women married much younger than they do today. Still, their age difference was one that caused concerns for the Miller family. They thought Mary was too young for courtship with Chesnut. Despite objections from her family Mary and James knew they were a good match for each other. Mary was more outspoken and passionate, while she decribed James as “cool and reserved” in his temperament. Both Mary and James were highly respected people. Despite their high social standing they both treated people with kindness and respect. James Chesnut was admitted to the bar in 1837, shortly after the pair began to court. Two years later the couple was engaged to be married. In the spring of 1840 Mary Miller and James Chesnut tied the knot. Mary was only seventeen, yet she had matured well beyond her years.

   They started their new life together at Mulberry Plantation, three miles south of Camden. Life was good for the Chesnuts’ in the waning years of the Antebellum South. James was elected to the South Carolina House of Representatives in the same year of their marriage. He served in this capacity for twelve years. For Mary Chesnut,  life on the plantation was fairly dull and complacent. She bided her time by listening to the latest society gossip, singing and playing her guitar. She had become an accomplished musician while she attended school in Charleston. One of the most pleasurable things Mary Chesnut did during these years was teaching many slave children how to read and write. This was something she did as a child. She gladly repeated this courageous offense as an adult. This was very risky for Chesnut. The punishment  for teaching slaves to read and write was severe.

     In 1858 James Chesnut was elected to the United States Senate on the Democratic ticket. While he wanted slavery to remain in place, he did not want a dissolved Union. When Abraham Lincoln was elected President in 1860, many Southerners became enraged. Lincoln’s promise of slavery’s abolishment threatened their way of life. James became the first Southern Senator to resign his post. Mary began her famous diary in November of 1860 with her reaction to Lincoln’s election. Chesnut was certainly no fan of the revered son of Springfield, but she respected his honesty, thick skin and courage in the face of a crumbling nation. South Carolina became the first state to secede on December 20th. Many people were overjoyed with this decision, not knowing what tumult lied ahead. Ten more Southern states followed our lead, forming the Confederate States of America. 

    Mary Chesnut first believed that the conflict would be resolved without bloodshed. In early Spring 1861, James was selected as an aid to General P.G.T. Beauregard. Fort Sumter was the only fort in South Carolina still held by the Federals. Beauregard asked Major Robert Anderson to give up Sumter without a fight. Anderson refused, so the Confederates fired on Sumter. The Civil War had begun. The ironic twist here was that Beauregard was a student of Anderson’s at West Point. Mary was there in Charleston with James when the battle began. She watched from a high rooftop as cannons lit up the night sky. After bombarding Fort Sumter for an extended period of time, James Chesnut took a boat to the fort to accept the terms for surrender from Anderson. Robert Anderson thanked Chesnut for his gracious terms and said he hoped the two would one day meet again as brothers in heaven.

   South Carolina was filled with optimism early in the conflict. There was spotty hand to hand combat, with both sides boasting of a quick and virtually painless war. Mary was one of these great optimists. She was in Richmond with her husband when he fought at the Battle of Bull Run. Mrs. Chesnut spoke of the great feelings of Southern Patriotism running through the Confederate Capital. A few days later Mary saw her first army hospital. After seeing multiple amputations and deaths, her romanticized view of the war came to a screeching halt. Chesnut also saw the Confederate Leadership as lacking, noting she could have done a better job. Unfortunately, as a 19th Century woman, she was given no such opportunity. The war raged on much longer than anyone expected. Despite many Confederate victories, the South was slowly running out of steam. The Union Army had more than three times the man power of the Confederate Army. The South fought valiantly but the North had every economic advantage, not to mention all the intangibles. In May of 1863, Confederate Titan Stonewall Jackson died eight days after being shot by his own men. Two months later the Confederacy was dealt another huge blow at Gettysburg. Mary Chesnut’s life, along with many prosperous Southerners, would change forever.

     By 1864 the Confederate Army was a sad sight. Chesnut noted the conditions of the soldiers. Many of these men had very few clothes or shoes to wear. Ammunition was low, or simply non-existent. Disease and malnourishment were very common. Major Confederate cities were taken. In the Fall of 1864 General William Tecumseh Sherman began his famous March to the Sea. After Sherman made Georgia “howl”, he plowed his way through the heart of South Carolina. He was met with little resistance. The only place Sherman’s torrid pace was met with resistance was at Rivers Bridge in southern Bamberg County. Chesnut spoke of the fear he and his troops struck in their hearts. By this time Confederate money was worth next to nothing. Mrs. Chesnut was forced to sell her old clothes to buy food for survival. At the conclusion of the war the South was left in considerable ruins. The Chesnuts went from great prosperity to desolation in the short span of five years. After the war, the resourceful Mary Chesnut ran a business selling milk and eggs. She partnered with one of her former slaves to make a decent living during this time. James Chesnut paid his former slaves what little he could to help restore Mulberry Plantation. The home had been looted by Union Forces during the war.    

    In 1873 James and Mary Chesnut built a simpler home in Camden they called Sarsfield. Mulberry was to go only to James, Sr.’s male heirs. James Jr. feared Mary would have nowhere to live if he died first. Mary Boykin Chesnut published only one story from her diary in her lifetime. This story, titled “The Arrest of a Spy”, appeared in the Charleston Weekly News and Courier. By 1880 Mary began to have problems with her lungs and heart. During this time she was forced to stop editing her diary. She also watched her mother and James fall into bad health in the early part of the decade. Mary Boykin Miller and James Chesnut both passed away in the Winter of 1885. Having no children of her own, Mary Chesnut found life to be extremely difficult without her husband’s companionship. She lived the last twenty months of her life at Sarsfield. Her annual income was a paltry sum of 100 dollars. She sold eggs and butter just to get by. Chesnut had seen most every social situation in her life. She had also endured through  these tough times, surely being a testament to a strong willed woman of the highest character. Mary Chesnut died of a heart attack on November 22, 1886.

     The first edition of her diary came to print in 1905 as A Diary from Dixie. Mary had encouraged her best friend Isabella to have it published after her death. In 1981 Southern Historian C. Vann Woodward finished an annotated edition of her diary that he titled Mary Chesnut’s Civil War. His impressive reworking of the diary won him a Pulitzer Prize for History in 1982. The most widespread critical acclaim for the diary came in 1990 with Ken Burns’ The Civil War. This award winning documentary features many selections from Chesnut’s diary. The Civil War is widely considered Ken Burns’ “magnum opus”. The illustrious cast of narrators includes Morgan Freeman, Garrison Keillor and Jason Robards. American stage and screen legend Julie Harris lends her voice as Mary Chesnut.

    Mary Boykin Chesnut’s voice and opinion, like many women of the 19th Century, has grown louder and gained more widespread influence since her death. Most people today associate her with her famous dairy. Mary Chesnut was much more than a stream of manuscript written on old paper. She questioned Old South principles and the lack of civil rights for women when others didn’t dare. Her passion for womens suffrage is evident in her diary. Chesnut also pointed out the social evils of the institution of slavery. She was graceful in prosperous times and tough as nails in times of desperation. Mary Boykin Chesnut, through her undying contributions to this state and honest perspective in our darkest days, is a South Carolinian well worth noting.

INDIGO BLUE NOTES: Mulberry Plantation, home of James and Mary Chesnut, was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. Mulberry was most recently listed as a National Historic Landmark in 2000 for Mary Boykin Chesnut’s literary contributions during the Civil War. The house is located three miles south of Historic Camden.

Mulberry Plantation      559 Sumter Highway (Highway 521)       Camden, South Carolina 29020

Indigo Blue would like to wish everyone a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! We are so excited about 2010! We already have a few stories lined up to go in January from exciting spots in York and Lancaster Counties.  Thank you to all the people that have given their encouragement and support. Stay tuned!  -Stephen Farnsworth

     Charles and Mary Moore produced 10 children, the most notable being the aforementioned Kate Moore. Kate was the eldest of the ten children. She married Andrew Barry in 1767 at the age of fifteen. When the Upcountry became involved in the Revolution Andrew and Kate volunteered their services to the Patriot cause. The Moores’ home and surrounding land became a focal point in the Southern Campaign of the early 1780’s. Captain Steadman, an ardent Patriot, was killed in the home by Tory forces led by “Bloody” Bill Cunningham. Steadman was in the home recovering from an illness. Blood stains on the floor were long thought to be those of Steadman’s until recently proven otherwise. Kate Moore Barry would soon become a folk hero with her daring displays of bravery and espionage.

    During the brutal winter of 1781 the tide had turned in favor of the seasoned American Patriots. Kate Barry had learned of the advances of the notorious Banastre Tarleton toward the Cowpens. General Daniel Morgan turned to Kate for help in rousing the locals in the fight for independence. Legend tells us that Kate tied her newborn baby to a bed post as she rode through the countryside in a fashion only Paul Revere could appreciate. Her impeccable riding skills gave her ample time in her efforts to help General Morgan. When the two sides met up at Cowpens Ban Tarleton’s forces were crushed by the well prepared Continental Army. Andrew Barry fought bravely in the battle under the command of ”The Wizard Owl” Andrew Pickens. Kate earned the title “Heroine of Cowpens” for her selfless contributions to the cause. She motivated countless men to rise up and fight for an ideal she so strongly believed in.

    Indigo Blue made a visit to Walnut Grove Plantation on May 24, 2009. Walnut Grove is the oldest  home of historical value in Spartanburg County. The weather was overcast with scattered showers on an otherwise pleasant afternoon. The conditions made for light traffic at Walnut Grove, which we certainly had no problem with. Once we entered the visitors center we found that we would be given our own personal tour of the site. Our tour guide was thorough and professional in his descriptions of the house and customs of the time period. He gave us a glimpse of what life was like for the Moore family in the 18th Century. The artifacts in the house were pleasantly displayed and well preserved. I am always bewildered by the diminutive size of the beds in 18th and 19th Century homes! After our tour of the manor house we viewed the smoke house, the well house and Rocky Spring Academy.

     Rocky Spring was one of the first schools in Spartanburg County. Charles Moore founded the school on the property in 1770. Rocky Spring successfully educated students for eighty years before closing its doors in 1850. At the conclusion of our tour we were able to view the rest of the grounds. Adjacent to the east wing of the house you will find the original well that is 30 feet deep. The vegetable garden showcases many crops that were prevalent in the 18th Century. An old barn at the back of the property houses a replica Conestoga Wagon, reminding us of the Moore Family trip down the Great Wagon Road. We also viewed the blacksmith’s forge and the office of Dr. Andrew Barry Moore. Andrew Moore was Spartanburg County’s first college trained physician. Looking back at the house you can almost feel the history speaking to you. The property is secluded from 21st Century Metropolitan Spartanburg. This only adds to the mystique, beauty and tranquility of Walnut Grove.

   Once you leave the house grounds you are welcome to take a stroll down a red clay path worn by time. The old path is surrounded by forest on one side and a peaceful grassy meadow on the other. At the end of the short journey you will see the final resting place of several members of the Moore family. You can also view many graves of slaves and Revolutionary War soldiers. Behind the oak shaded graveyard you will see the entrance to a half mile nature trail. The trail features lush vegetation and wildlife nestled in their natural habitat. The Mountain Magnolia, rare in this part of the country, can be found here. The nature trail is a great place to take a stroll on a warm summer day. You can also bring a picnic and enjoy the quiet surroundings in the shadows of the colonial home. Walnut Grove holds their annual “Festifall” festival each year in early October. This event is attended by approximately 2,000 people each autumn. There are many activities and demonstrations on the property that include a host of reenactors in period dress. Walnut Grove Plantation is a special place to visit during any season. We were glad to show our appreciation to a family that played such a vital role in our fight for independence.

Admission: Adults (18-64)- $6   Seniors (65 & Up)- $5.50   Youths (6-17)- $3   Children 5 & Under- FREE

1200 Otts Shoals Road      Roebuck, South Carolina 29376      Phone: (864) 576-6546

www.spartanburghistory.org   

To view a photo gallery of our trip to Walnut Grove Plantation please click here               

INDIGO BLUE NOTES: Native South Carolinian and USC Upstate professor Sheila Ingle has written an award winning children’s book about Kate Moore Barry titled Courageous Kate: A Daughter of the American Revolution. This book is a great read for any proud Sandlapper or simply one interested in heros and heroines of the American Revolution. Hint: This would be a great stocking stuffer with Christmas just two weeks away!

     The county seat  is the town of McCormick. The town was named for Cyrus McCormick, the man who invented the mechanical reaper. McCormick County has many different attractions and historic sites that stand the test of time. The John de la Howe School was founded in 1797 to help the less fortunate children of the Old 96 District. Originally called the Lethe Agricultural Seminary, the school served as an orphanage and school in Abbeville County. After years of service the school closed twice following the tough economic times of post-Civil War South Carolina. In 1918 the school became a state agency and was renamed for the philanthropic John de la Howe. The school was moved to McCormick County near the community of Bordeaux. Today the school enrolls approximately 150 adolescents from families that need the services of this truly important school. Maxi and I have bought crafts made by the students and faculty here on past visits to de la Howe. We wanted to give our personal thanks to everyone involved with this inspiring institution.

     Located ten miles south of McCormick is the tranquil town of Parksville. Here you’ll find Price’s Mill, a water powered grist mill located next to Stevens Creek. David Calliham built the first grist mill here in the 1770’s. The current mill was constructed in 1890. The mill is named for R.A. Price, a man who was passionate about his job. Price often worked six or seven days each week to make sure the mill was running at full capacity. He ran the mill from 1910 until his son John took over the business many years later. In it’s hay day Price’s Mill produced six tons of cornmeal each week. Time and progress saw the decline of the grist mill in South Carolina. This rustic mill recently ceased it’s operation but still holds historical significance to the town of Parksville and McCormick County. Price’s Mill was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1972.

     Another site of historical significance is the Long Cane Massacre. From 1759-61 the backcountry of South Carolina was the scene of the bloody Cherokee War. In February of 1760 nearly 150 settlers were ambushed by Cherokee Indian Warriors as they fled by wagon train to Fort Moore, near Augusta. The settlers had received a tip of the planned attack, but the party was filled with expectant mothers and young children that slowed the pace of the caravan. According to many accounts the Cherokee, who had tracked the settlers with no rest, almost gave up their pursuit. As they began to turn back they heard the rustling wagon train in the far distance and pushed forward. In a bloody melee that lasted about an hour, twenty three settlers were killed along with many wounded. Several children were taken prisoner. Among the dead was 76 year old Catherine Calhoun, grandmother of  John C. Calhoun. It was a sad twist of fate. If the settlers had departed just minutes earlier this story would not be found in history books.

    Indigo Blue made a visit to McCormick County on September 19-20, 2009 to cover the Gold Rush Festival and attend an annual family reunion. The trip from Greenville to McCormick is nearly two hours. You pass through small towns and countryside the entire way. We enjoyed driving past the picturesque Erskine College campus in the town of Due West and much beautiful countryside.  It’s nice to know so much undeveloped land still exists. Here concrete doesn’t dominate the landscape like it does in the city. When we arrived in McCormick we saw signs promoting the 32nd Annual Gold Rush Festival. This festival is one we have grown to love over the past four years, as it falls on the same weekend as our family reunion. McCormick is normally a quiet town that has a certain peace about it. The Gold Rush weekend is a time when McCormick is filled with entertainment, arts & crafts, a barbecue cookoff and people eager to pan for gold.

     Despite the forecast of scattered showers throughout the day the crowds showed up in full force for this year’s Gold Rush. The usual vendors lined the historic district, hoping for good business in a tough economy. This year’s festival started with the annual downtown parade. Several musical acts entertained guests of all ages in the park, highlighted by the Zoe Belly Dancing Troupe from Greenwood and the Wideman Family. We met several friendly vendors as we strolled the streets of McCormick. The MACK was having a silent auction for many impressive pieces of art. MACK stands for  McCormick Arts Council at the Keturah. The MACK was originally the Keturah Hotel, owned by William Conner and his wife Mary Keturah Conner. Today the MACK is the center of art and culture in McCormick. Almost directly across the street stands Strom’s Drug Store. Strom’s features a 100 year old soda fountain that serves up fountain drinks and shakes like the good ol’ days. Unfortunately we arrived just minutes after they had closed for the day, but next year will bring new opportunities.

    This year’s Gold Rush also featured a Classic Car Show. I will admit I am not a vintage car enthusiast, but I do appreciate the time and effort the owners put into restoring their timeless automobiles. One of the best displays at the festival was a license plate collection like I’ve never seen. A gentleman there had a wall of plates that spanned South Carolina’s entire license tag history. It was so interesting to see how these tags had evolved since 1917! At the end of the days festivities our family convened at Little Italy Pizzeria. Little Italy serves up savory Italian food that is reasonably priced. The whole family enjoyed the entrees, service and atmosphere at Little Italy. The next day Maxi and I knew we still had a lot left to cover in the area. Our first item on the agenda was panning for gold. Let’s face it, you can’t come to McCormick without hoping for prospects of gold! McCormick sits above nearly five miles of tunnels from past gold mines.

     We arrived at the Heritage Gold Mine Park to mine for gold and tour the site. In August of 2009, management was taken over by the husband and wife team of Dave and Chris Gray. Chris took us on a tour of the mine and gave us a great perspective of 19th Century Gold Mining. Dave showed us the delicate steps involved with proper gold and gem mining. McCormick became famous for gold in 1852 when William Dorn, an Edgefield County farmer, discovered the second largest vein of gold in the state. Dorn brought in nearly one million dollars in profit during his excavation. He became a very wealthy man in those years leading up to the Civil War. When South Carolina seceded from the Union,  Billy Dorn became an ardent supporter of the Confederate Army. He outfitted the entire 15th South Carolina Regiment, dubbed “Dorn’s Invincibles”. While generous to a fault, this kind of spending left Mr. Dorn nearly destitute. In 1871 Cyrus McCormick bought Dorn’s mines and many surrounding acres of land. McCormick spent close to $200,000 on the mines over the next decade, hoping to replicate the success of William Dorn. While McCormick never had substantial success with the mines he made a profound impression on the area. In the early 1880’s Cyrus auctioned off 40 acres of land to set up a town less than a mile from the mine. He also donated land to build churches and a local school. McCormick  persuaded the railroad company to come through the town, helping to boost the economy. The citizens of the town thanked Cyrus McCormick and his wife Nettie for their generous gifts by changing the name of Dorn’s Mine Post Office to McCormick.

     At the end of our tour we went to photograph a couple of McCormick’s famous historic sites. First on the agenda was the home of Senator Joseph Jennings Dorn. Joseph Dorn served in the state senate from 1930-36. Dorn was nationally known for his testimony in the Lindbergh Baby Trial of 1935.  His life was cut short when he died in a tragic automobile accident the next year. Dorn’s Colonial Revival style home, built in 1917, was McCormick’s first home made of brick. Upon completion, the house had all the latest luxuries and upgrades of the time period. Today tours are held at the Dorn House on Friday and Saturday afternoons. Across the famous railroad tracks is the historic Dorn Mill. The SCDAH notes that the Dorn Mill “is an outstanding example of rural industrial architecture”. This gristmill, built in 1898, originally housed a cotton gin that became a flour and grist mill in the 1920’s. Through the years the mill ground commercial corn meal, flour from wheat for local farmers, as well as chicken feed. The mill closed in the 1940’s after nearly fifty years of operation. Today the mill’s machinery remains intact and well preserved. Dorn Mill was listed on the National Register in 1976.

     The last stop on our tour was Hickory Knob State Park. This sprawling park encompasses nearly 1100 acres along the shores of Lake Thurmond. Maxi and I have been to Hickory Knob more times than we can count. The outdoor activities at HKSP are seemingly endless. Golf enthusiasts can test their skill at the park’s challenging 18 hole course. The scenery here is magnificent as it winds through a pine forest along the shoreline of the lake. Rates here are very reasonable, even for tight budgets. Other outdoor activities include fishing, boating, archery, skeet shooting, tennis and swimming. Some of these activities cost a nominal fee. If you aren’t wild about the outdoors you will enjoy the fully equipped lodge at Hickory Knob. This newly renovated facility has many activities for a rainy day. The recreation room features two pool tables, a sleek high definition television and fireplace for the ultimate in relaxation. The gift shop here is very impressive. Various state park items and sundries are available during  business hours. At the south end of the lodge the Hickory Knob restaurant serves up fried chicken, hearty vegetables and ice cold sweet tea.

      One of the greatest features here is the lodging. Hickory Knob features 18 one room cabins, a four bedroom barrack and the rustic 18th Century Guillebeau House. The Guillebeau House is McCormick County’s oldest home. Andre Guillebeau, a French Huguenot, built this backcountry cabin for his family around 1770 in the colony of New Bordeaux. New Bordeaux was the last of seven Huguenot colonies in South Carolina. The colony was founded in 1764, led by Reverend Jean Louis Gibert. The Huguenots were hard working people who left France in search of religious freedom. Here they built a self-sustaining community that thrived for nearly two decades. They faced many hardships including Indian attacks and Tory raids during the American Revolution. The town began its decline after the war and became a ghost town by 1790. The historic Guillebeau House was moved to Hickory Knob State Park in 1983.  Our exciting weekend in McCormick County had finally come to a close. The warm September sun began to set, giving us our cue to head back to Greenville. We had thoroughly enjoyed our annual visit to this special place that many people overlook. If you’re searching for a little bit of gold, natural beauty and Southern hospitality you’ll find it here in McCormick County, a hidden gem on South Carolina’s Freshwater Coast.

For more information on McCormick County and the Gold Rush Festival call the McCormick County Chamber at (864) 852-2835, or visit their website at www.mccormickscchamber.org

For more information on Hickory Knob State Park call (864) 391-2450 or visit their website at www.southcarolinaparks.com

For more information on the Heritage Gold Mine Park visit their website at www.heritagegoldmine.com

To see pictures from our trip to McCormick County and the 2009 Gold Rush Festival click here.

     Indigo Blue made a visit to the “Holy City” on October 16-17, 2009. Maxi and I visited some of our favorite sites and ate our way through our state’s matriarch city. We photographed historic churches, shopped the downtown Market and strolled The Battery on an unusually cool October afternoon. We saw monuments to heroes of South Carolina that included Moultrie and Marion. We viewed a marker at White Point Gardens that told the story of the “Gentleman Pirate” Stede Bonnet’s sad fate in 1718. When you are in Charleston there is always a dilemma with picking a place to eat. There are many impeccable restaurants in Charleston, but we thought we would speak of our favorite place for Italian in the Palmetto State, Bocci’s. We will also talk extensively about Charles Towne Landing State Historic Site, the birthplace of South Carolina.

    Standing quietly in the shadows of  St. Philip’s Episcopal Church on Historic Church Street, Bocci’s Italian Restaurant is everything a chain restaurant wishes it could be. Bocci’s is a place where classic decor and candle light set the mood for a meal you won’t soon forget. Bocci’s intimate surroundings bring you back to a time where a meal wasn’t consumed in a hurried manner, when every bite was savored like it was your last. Like most places in Charleston there is history behind this restaurant. The building, completed in 1868, has served Charleston in many capacities. In the late 1800’s the building housed Charleston’s first Irish Pub. During  prohibition the bar moved to the back of the building and became a speakeasy while the front part operated a grocery store. Throughout much of the 20th Century the building served as a private residence. Bocci’s opened for business in 1992 and seventeen years later remains the premier place for Italian fare in the Holy City.

     Deciding on what to eat for dinner is my only complaint about Bocci’s, simply because there are so many quality choices on the menu. I am a very traditional person that only likes subtle change. I don’t branch out very often. Bocci’s is the one place I will freely try new things on the menu with every visit. My favorite menu item has changed three times here, but I think I have found my perfect dish. I devoured the Ravioli Arrabiata. This spinach and walnut ravioli is mixed with Italian sausage, fresh spinach and topped with a spicy marinara sauce that soothes the soul. Maxi never strays from Bocci’s classic Spaghetti and Meatballs. Bocci’s takes spicy sausage and beef meatballs in a Bolognese sauce over spaghetti and tops it with fresh Parmesan cheese. Dessert lovers need look no farther than Bocci’s take on tiramisu. Their version of this classic Italian treat features Ladyfingers drenched in espresso, adds Kahlua and chocolate and tops it with layers of Mascarpone cheese. No matter the occasion Bocci’s will win you over with their great service, throwback ambiance and timeless simplicity.

     The main focus of our trip to the Holy City was to see firsthand where it all began. Charles Towne Landing State Historic Site showcases the first permanent European Settlement in South Carolina. Charles Towne Landing opened in 1970 to commemorate the state’s Tricentennial. The site was revamped in 2006 and gives a great perspective of what the first permanent settlers encountered during those first years at Albemarle Point. Maxi and I made our first visit to this great piece of history on Saturday, October 17th. We encountered cool weather that approached record lows for Charleston in mid-October.

    As we entered the walkway to the visitor’s center we were greeted by waves of sweetgrass and oak trees. The visitor’s center at Charles Towne Landing is well designed, informative and aesthetically pleasing. Twelve rooms chronicle the long and arduous journey that started near Deal, England in an area called “The Downs”. The seven month voyage included stops in Kinsale, Ireland and Bridgetown, Barbados before reaching the final destination in Carolina. The eight Lords Proprietors of Carolina are intimately portrayed here at Charles Towne Landing. I found it very interesting to find that none one of the eight proprietors ever visited Carolina. Lord Anthony Ashley Cooper was the most inflential and passionate supporter of the eight. The Ashley and Cooper Rivers are named for this 1st Earl of Shaftesbury. Ashley Cooper also collaborated with John Locke to write the Fundamental Constitutions of Carolina. When visiting this historic state park you will find the staff here to be helpful and friendly. We wanted to thank Ms. Veronica Robinson for the impeccable customer service she provided from the time we walked through the door. Ms. Robinson told us she had been employed at Charles Towne Landing for 25 years. Her smile and kind demeanor made us glad we chose CTL as our next feature.

    We started out on our adventure along the path leading to our first stop, the Animal Forest. Along the way we saw nine black park benches. We wondered what the significance was to the nine benches when it hit us. The park created a fitting tribute to the nine Charleston firefighters who gave their lives in 2007. We immediately stopped to pay our respects to these brave citizens who gave their lives protecting Charleston’s citizens. Before you enter the Animal Forest you will see an impressive statue by renowned sculptor Peter Wolf  Toth. This massive wood carving called Landing Brave is a tribute to Native Americans in his series titled Trail of the Whispering Giants. As we entered the Animal Forest we could feel ourselves going back in time, viewing animals that were indigenous to South Carolina in 1670. Our first stop was the bird aviary where we saw pelicans, egrets and ibis’. They were fascinating to watch and didn’t seem to mind humans very much. As we walked through the forest we hoped to see the black bear and the river otters, but they must have been napping. We did however see deer, elk, wild turkeys, turkey vultures and bison. If you’ve never seen a bison up close you will be amazed at how massive these animals are.

    Once we returned to the main trail we saw the statue of Cassique of the Kiawah. The Cassique was the “head chief” of the tribe. The Kiawah Indians welcomed the new settlers and protected them from the hostile Westo Tribe. As we continued down the trail we saw the impressive palisade wall that the settlers used for protection. Once inside the walls Maxi got some up close pictures of the indentured servants quarters. Maxi and I also learned of the colonists’ means of punishment as we passed the stocks. Finally our path led us to Old Towne Creek, just several hundred yards off the western side of the Ashley. The landscape was calm and beautiful. Downtown Charleston was in clear view on this sun splashed day.

     There, glistening in the sun was the replica trading vessel Adventure. We climbed aboard the ship and got a brief glimpse of life on the high seas. The historical interpreter did a phenomenal job describing the ship and its capabilities. He was very convincing as a late 17th Century sailor. I enjoy when history comes to life, for he truly made us feel like we were in 1670 Carolina. As someone who loves the history of our beautiful state, Albemarle Point gave me such a sense of pride. As we left the Adventure Maxi and I headed north to see examples of a 17th Century crop garden and a house built of wattle and daub construction. There were many crops growing in the garden, but our favorite was the indigo. To the west of the garden was the Archaeology Exhibit. This outdoor structure showed us how the property was excavated in 1969 and how the palisade wall was accurately restored to its past glory.

    Continuing on we passed live oaks through a forest that led to the famous Avenue of Oaks. A large crew was setting up for a wedding reception under the beautiful canopy of old trees. The Legare-Waring House is the host of many elegant weddings.  I can only imagine the presentation of a reception here. Behind the house is a lagoon surrounded by palmettos, blooming flowers and a  Lowcountry landscape that left us breathless. Minutes later we  made our way back to the visitors center. 

     I am convinced that Charles Towne Landing should be a rite of passage for any South Carolinian, or simply for one who loves history or nature. It was an autumn day to remember on the hallowed grounds where a proud state spent it’s first decade. Come see where our state’s permanent  roots began at Charles Towne Landing State Historic Site. You’ll find it in the the city that knows sweet tea is just another food group, Charleston, South Carolina.

Admission: Adults- $5   S.C. Seniors- $3.25   Children 6-15- $3   Children 5 & Under- FREE

1500 Old Towne Road     Charleston, South Carolina 29407     (843) 852-4200

www.southcarolinaparks.com

To see photos of our trip to Charles Towne Landing State Historic Site visit the photo gallery

Bocci’s Italian Restaurant: 158 Church Street     Charleston, South Carolina 29401     (843) 720-2121

 www.boccis.com

To see photos of Bocci’s and Charleston County click here and to see photos of Charles Towne Landing click here.

                                                         Ralph Waldo Emerson once said, “Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail.” There are certain people that have the utmost determination to make a difference in other people’s lives. Some of these trailblazers are born with the resources to thrive and some are born into humble circumstances. This story is about a woman who was born in a small log cabin in Sumter County and died a frequent visitor to the White House in Washington. The life of Mary McLeod Bethune was one lived with strength, determination and goodwill towards all people, no matter what their race or social standing was in life.

    Mary Jane McLeod was born on July 10, 1875 to Samuel and Patsy McLeod in Mayesville, South Carolina. Both of Mary’s parents were ex-slaves who worked a rice and cotton farm in eastern Sumter County. Mary was the 15th of 17 children. Many of her brothers and sisters had also felt the cold shackles of slavery. Mary McLeod saw the sacrifice her parents made each day and promised herself that persons of color would one day have a voice. As a young child McLeod encountered many of the same roadblocks that plagued African Americans in the 19th Century. At this time the vast majority of black people were illiterate, mostly due to the lack of opportunity. Mary was interested in books but was told by white children that African Americans could not read. She used this example as a platform for change.

    In 1886 the Presbyterian Mission Board set up a school for African American children in Sumter. Mary made the four mile trek to school each day without complaint. She excelled in school, displaying her natural born leadership skills. In her early teens Mary was selected to attend Scotia Seminary in North Carolina on a scholarship. She excelled at Scotia and went on to win another scholarship to the present day Moody Bible Institute in Chicago. During her time at the institute she worked toward becoming a missionary to Africa. She was told that blacks were not needed for this endeavor so she turned to the field of education.

    At the age of 21 Mary was hired to teach at Haines Normal and Industrial School in Augusta, Georgia. There she learned rigid discipline and structure from Lucy Craft Laney. Laney founded the school and ran it with meticulous precision.  Ms. McLeod was at  Haines for just one year but learned many valuable lessons from Laney. Mary was transferred back to Sumter County in 1897 to teach at Kindell Institute. Here she met and fell in love with Albertus Bethune. After a short courtship Mary and Albertus were married and Bethune gave birth to son Albert the next year. Soon after the birth of her son Mrs. Bethune was persuaded by a visiting minister from Palatka, Florida to manage a mission school he had started. For five years Mary did a brilliant job teaching young people at the school. She was a frequent visitor to the local jail, teaching imprisoned people to read and handed out hope to those who needed her most. Mary enjoyed her time here but felt it was time to start her own school.

    When the time came to pick a location for the new school Bethune picked the popular tourist destination of Daytona, Florida. In the fall of 1904 Mary opened the Daytona Educational and Industrial Training School. She wanted to make young women self sufficient and responsible in society. Mary and Albertus had a  rocky marriage and eventually parted ways. They never divorced but remained on good terms until Albert passed away in 1918. Even through hard times in her private life Mary stuck to the task of creating a successful school. Money was scarce but her will was strong. In three short years enrollment grew from five to four hundred students! Humble beginnings and hard work were greeted by a new sprawling campus with thirty two acres and a farm. In just two decades the school had flourished. Cookman College of Jacksonville merged with her school to create the co-educational Bethune-Cookman College.

    Bethune’s leadership skills made her a natural for positions in the political realm. She became president of the Florida chapter of the National Association of Colored Women (NACW) in 1917. During this time she was harassed by the Ku Klux Klan. They threatened her repeatedly to no avail. When women were granted the 19th Amendment Mary made sure African Americans hit the voting polls. She had endured many hardships and overcome many obstacles. The Klan was little match for her spirit and strong will. By 1924 she had become the National President of the NACW and became a noted public speaker.

    Mary McLeod Bethune’s leadership was finally being noted on a national level. President Calvin Coolidge invited her to the National Child Welfare Conference of 1928. Coolidge was inspired by her passionate stance on educating America’s youth. Two years later Herbert Hoover tabbed her as a member on the White House Child Health Conference. Bethune was also heavily involved with the National Youth Administration. This program helped young adults find employment in the Depression ravaged 1930’s. Some of Bethune’s greatest achievements came during the administration of Franklin D. Roosevelt. Bethune and Eleanor Roosevelt had become very close friends by the time her husband started his twelve year run as president. Mary encouraged black people to support Roosevelt in the elections. Eleanor and Franklin wanted to see the wall of segregation knocked down forever. Mary McLeod Bethune, as she had done many times before, stood up for ideals she knew were meant for all Americans.

    Bethune formed a group of African American leaders called the Federal Council of Negro Affairs. This became more commonly known as Roosevelt’s “Black Cabinet”. Mary became a regular in the White House and used her influence to continue fighting for civil rights for all people.  By the time Roosevelt left office Mary McLeod Bethune was arguably the most famous African American woman in the United States. In 1948 she was the lone woman of color at the founding of the United Nations. In her last years she collected many honors including the Medal of Honor and Merit from Haiti in 1949 and the Star of Africa from Liberia in 1952. Mary McLeod Bethune suffered a fatal heart attack, passing on May 18, 1955. Ironically this was just months before Rosa Parks made history with the Montgomery Bus Boycott. Bethune had paved the way for change, giving many civil rights leaders a vision and a voice.

    Many of these changes might not have been possible if not for the selfless sacrifice and determination of one Mary Jane McLeod Bethune. Bethune said of her life, “Faith is the first factor in a life devoted to service. Without it, nothing is possible. With it, nothing is impossible.” That sums up the empowered life of one of South Carolina’s greatest native daughters. Through her faith, hope and determination the impossible became possible.

    By the mid 19th century Yorkville had become one of the larger towns in South Carolina’s Upcountry. In 1853 The Yorkville Enquirer was started by Lewis Grist. This publication ran weekly until 2006 when it merged with another local paper. Yorkville was the first town in the Upcountry to have gas lighting and boasted the Rose Hotel, a sophisticated establishment admired across the region for its hospitality. By 1915, the residents of Yorkville decided to shorten the town’s name to York. Today York has about 7,000 residents and has one of South Carolina’s largest historic districts. York also boasts a reputable local community theatre troupe, the Yorkville Players. They have entertained York since 1990 with such acts as Frankenstein, Dracula and I Hate Hamlet. The Yorkville Players perform at the historic McCelvey Center. In October they will feature The Brothers Grimm Spectaculathon, a production that will feature all 209 tales in just 90 minutes.

     One of South Carolina’s most popular one day festivals is York’s Summerfest. This festival, held on the fourth Saturday of August attracts as many as 50,000 visitors! This farewell to summer includes a moon light bike ride, arts and crafts sale and a golf competition. Windy Hill Orchard & Cider Mill is a must see in the fall on a visit to York. Apple picking, hay rides and hot apple cider doughnuts are just a few reasons people visit the Gusmer Family. The doughnuts here are legendary, a craft the Gusmers have perfected. Just three miles north in Filbert the Smith Family has run the Peach Tree Orchards since Lyndon B. Johnson was president. Along with fresh peaches they have a full service ice cream parlor that serves up everything from sundaes to coke floats. In October they have a hay bail maze and sell pumpkins in anticipation of Halloween.

    Indigo Blue made a visit to York on June 6, 2009. York was named by Pennsylvania settlers who migrated here in the 18th Century. They named their new home after the PA town of the same name. The town name originates from York, England. The Houses of York and Lancaster were famous for England’s bitter 15th Century War of the Roses. The House of York represented the white rose, while the House of Lancaster represented the red rose. York and Lancaster, SC claim the white and red rose to this day. Maxi and I had been to York once, but the weather didn’t cooperate very well that March day. This return trip couldn’t have been better. The late afternoon sun was warm and made the historic district glisten. We walked the downtown area with little interruption. We snapped pictures of York Presbyterian Church and the Latta House.

   Historic York is a perfect place to take a walk in a quaint small town setting. As you stroll down Congress Street you will feel the heartbeat and spirit of this Olde English District town. There are several restaurants and businesses downtown. The Sylvia Theater is a restored arts venue that hosts movies and live performances. It has received critical acclaim for its recent renovation. The Sylvia is known for its incredible acoustics and great weekly shows. Good food abounds in York. The Coal Yard serves up great food and frequently hosts trivia nights. Live music adds to the fun in this 130 year old building, but text messaging and constant cell phone usage is out of the question. The Cotton Belt Bakery is one of York County’s premier places for those with a sweet tooth. I personally know people who come from Rock Hill and Fort Mill to the Cotton Belt to get fresh baked bread, cakes or their yummy cinnamon rolls. As we concluded our visit to York we made a reservation at one of our favorite restaurants, The Garden Café.   

     The Garden Café is a place that makes you feel cozy and comfortable as soon as you walk through the front door. This soothing destination mixes garden tones with coffee house ambiance and has a menu to please any palette. The décor is very shabby sheik, reminding one of an Upcountry Pawleys Island. The café has a small antique and gift store that Maxi and I loved. There was a Ryan Adams song playing in the background on the sound system that fit this classy, yet laid back atmosphere. When we arrived at our table there was a small place card that read Farnsworth, party of two. It made us feel very special. Let’s be honest, chain restaurants don’t take the time to write your name in calligraphy.

   The staff at The Garden Café goes the extra mile to make you a repeat customer. Our food came out in a timely manner. My sirloin steak and new potatoes came with a honey Tabasco sauce that left me speechless! Maxi loved the pecan encrusted chicken sandwich with pasta salad and sweet tea. Live acoustic music greets guests every Friday night, adding to the incredibly eclectic atmosphere. The Garden Café also hosts beautiful weddings outside at the Garden Gate Pavilion. My Aunt Elizabeth attended a wedding there a few years ago and she raved about the presentation and ambiance. We wanted to spend hours talking aimlessly about life’s simple pleasures but knew it was time to go home. It was a great afternoon spent in one of South Carolina’s historic small towns. As we left York along the rolling hills of Highway 5, a beautiful sunset capped a near perfect day. It was truly a special afternoon, matching the beauty of the white rose.

For more information on York call (803) 684-2590, or visit their web site: www.greateryorkchamber.com.

For more information on The Garden Cafe call (803) 684-7019, or visit their web site: www.thegardencafeyork.com

For photos of our trip to York please visit our photo gallery.

John Rutledge 1739-1800

     Through the centuries South Carolina has produced many names that roll off the tongue with ease. Names like Marion, Calhoun, Jackson, Sumter and Thurmond are known by virtually every South Carolinian. Then there are names like Rutledge, which some people recognize as a signer of the Declaration of Independence. That would of course be Edward Rutledge, the youngest to sign our nation’s sacred document. We will talk about Edward at some point here at Indigo Blue, but this story is about his eldest brother John.

      John Rutledge was born on September 17, 1739 in Charles Towne, SC to John and Sarah Rutledge. He was the eldest of seven children and was educated by his father as a young child. Mr. Rutledge died when John was 11 years old, and the rest of his education was provided by a local priest. John was an extremely bright young man who dreamed of practicing law. He would conduct mock cases with his brothers and sisters as a teenager. Rutledge studied law under James Parsons for two years. When John was 19 years old he decided to move to London to study at Middle Temple. There John showed his astute brilliance and knowledge of the law. He won cases in English courts and was poised to come home to Charles Towne at the conclusion of his studies. When he returned home he began an immediately successful law practice, unlike most of his contemporaries. At the age of 23 John married Elizabeth Grimke. He loved and admired his wife throughout their marriage. John and Elizabeth had 10 children together, eight that lived to adulthood.

     In 1765 John Rutledge was appointed to the Stamp Act Congress. Rutledge petitioned the English House of Lords to reject this measure because the Colonists thought it to be unfair. The delegates were unsuccessful and South Carolina was in an uproar. War with England was now a distinct possibility. After the Stamp Act John returned to his successful law practice and made a good living for his family. By 1774 the dark clouds of war loomed over South Carolina. Rutledge took part in the First and Second Continental Congress. By 1776 John Rutledge was the most influential man in South Carolina. Under the new government Rutledge was elected President of South Carolina. The title governor reminded the colonists of British authority so he was given the title of president instead. He was determined to lead our colony to the best of his ability while preparing for assaults by the British.

      In June of 1776, Rutledge learned that a rather large British naval force was heading for Charles Towne. He ordered the building of what is now Fort Moultrie. The construction of the fort was not complete when the British neared Charles Towne Harbor. General Charles Lee asked Rutledge to evacuate the fort, fearing that every last man would be killed. John refused to write the order, believing we could win the battle. When the British arrived, they pounded the fort time after time with their large cannons. The cannonballs simply sank into the walls of the fort because they were made from the soft, spongy trunk of Palmetto trees. This caused the British to turn back and allowed the Palmetto to become a symbol of hope and courage for all South Carolinians.

     John Rutledge served as President for two years when the state legislature proposed a modified constitution. He believed this was a measure that came dangerously close to anarchy. Rutledge was saddened by this measure and resigned his post. Over the next year the British Army continued to take a stronghold on South Carolina. Rutledge was elected in 1779 under a revised constitution, this time as governor. By 1780 Charles Towne had fallen to the British. Rutledge fled the city but remained governor of unconquered South Carolina. As the war waged on, the Patriot cause was running out of steam. Losses at Fishing Creek and Camden were crushing blows to the Patriots. In October at the Battle of Kings Mountain, the tide turned. Patriot forces crushed the Loyalists in a bloody battle. Three months later Daniel Morgan routed British forces led by the hated Banastre Tarleton at the Cowpens near  present day Chesnee, SC. In December of 1781, Nathanael Greene took back the Holy City and pushed the British out of South Carolina.

     John Rutledge’s term as governor ended in early 1782 as the American Colonies were on the cusp of freedom. He had done everything in his power to be a great leader even through the toughest of times. Rutledge was appointed to the Court of Chancery in 1784 and served in that capacity for seven years. He also represented South Carolina in the Constitutional Convention. In the summer of 1792 Elizabeth Rutledge, loving wife of John, passed away. This moment deeply saddened John Rutledge for the rest of his life. In 1795 John Jay resigned as Chief Justice of the United States. President George Washington appointed the always reliable John Rutledge to take his place. Two weeks after Rutledge took the position he delivered a speech that criticized John Jay’s Treaty with England.

      In December of 1795 the U.S. Senate rejected his appointment and forced him out of office. It was a sad day for Rutledge and many of his old friends including John Adams. His wife’s death and being ousted by the Senate drove John into reclusion. Mental illness had forced this great South Carolinian out of the spotlight. By the turn of the century his mind and health were failing him. In January of 1800 his brother Edward died. Edward was mourned by many and had a funeral attended by Charleston’s elite. Six months later the governor who led us through the great fight for independence passed on. I was watching Mary Long’s Yesteryear on ETV last week when Mrs. Long pointed out that very few people attended the service of one of the greatest South Carolinians, John Rutledge.

     She inspired me to write about Rutledge as our first feature on great Sandlappers from the past. People seem to concentrate on what someone has done for them lately. John Rutledge suffered from mental issues late in life, mostly due to the heartbreak incurred when he lost his soul mate. I think we should remember this Charlestonian for what he did in the remarkable life in which he led. John Rutledge was a humble Patriot who served South Carolina for decades, never asking for anything in return. His selfless service to this state ranks him, in my opinion, as one of the great leaders like Marion, Sumter and Pickens. These three legends were all led by a man named John Rutledge.