Indigo Blue made a visit to the “Holy City” on October 16-17, 2009. Maxi and I visited some of our favorite sites and ate our way through our state’s matriarch city. We photographed historic churches, shopped the downtown Market and strolled The Battery on an unusually cool October afternoon. We saw monuments to heroes of South Carolina that included Moultrie and Marion. We viewed a marker at White Point Gardens that told the story of the “Gentleman Pirate” Stede Bonnet’s sad fate in 1718. When you are in Charleston there is always a dilemma with picking a place to eat. There are many impeccable restaurants in Charleston, but we thought we would speak of our favorite place for Italian in the Palmetto State, Bocci’s. We will also talk extensively about Charles Towne Landing State Historic Site, the birthplace of South Carolina.

    Standing quietly in the shadows of  St. Philip’s Episcopal Church on Historic Church Street, Bocci’s Italian Restaurant is everything a chain restaurant wishes it could be. Bocci’s is a place where classic decor and candle light set the mood for a meal you won’t soon forget. Bocci’s intimate surroundings bring you back to a time where a meal wasn’t consumed in a hurried manner, when every bite was savored like it was your last. Like most places in Charleston there is history behind this restaurant. The building, completed in 1868, has served Charleston in many capacities. In the late 1800’s the building housed Charleston’s first Irish Pub. During  prohibition the bar moved to the back of the building and became a speakeasy while the front part operated a grocery store. Throughout much of the 20th Century the building served as a private residence. Bocci’s opened for business in 1992 and seventeen years later remains the premier place for Italian fare in the Holy City.

     Deciding on what to eat for dinner is my only complaint about Bocci’s, simply because there are so many quality choices on the menu. I am a very traditional person that only likes subtle change. I don’t branch out very often. Bocci’s is the one place I will freely try new things on the menu with every visit. My favorite menu item has changed three times here, but I think I have found my perfect dish. I devoured the Ravioli Arrabiata. This spinach and walnut ravioli is mixed with Italian sausage, fresh spinach and topped with a spicy marinara sauce that soothes the soul. Maxi never strays from Bocci’s classic Spaghetti and Meatballs. Bocci’s takes spicy sausage and beef meatballs in a Bolognese sauce over spaghetti and tops it with fresh Parmesan cheese. Dessert lovers need look no farther than Bocci’s take on tiramisu. Their version of this classic Italian treat features Ladyfingers drenched in espresso, adds Kahlua and chocolate and tops it with layers of Mascarpone cheese. No matter the occasion Bocci’s will win you over with their great service, throwback ambiance and timeless simplicity.

     The main focus of our trip to the Holy City was to see firsthand where it all began. Charles Towne Landing State Historic Site showcases the first permanent European Settlement in South Carolina. Charles Towne Landing opened in 1970 to commemorate the state’s Tricentennial. The site was revamped in 2006 and gives a great perspective of what the first permanent settlers encountered during those first years at Albemarle Point. Maxi and I made our first visit to this great piece of history on Saturday, October 17th. We encountered cool weather that approached record lows for Charleston in mid-October.

    As we entered the walkway to the visitor’s center we were greeted by waves of sweetgrass and oak trees. The visitor’s center at Charles Towne Landing is well designed, informative and aesthetically pleasing. Twelve rooms chronicle the long and arduous journey that started near Deal, England in an area called “The Downs”. The seven month voyage included stops in Kinsale, Ireland and Bridgetown, Barbados before reaching the final destination in Carolina. The eight Lords Proprietors of Carolina are intimately portrayed here at Charles Towne Landing. I found it very interesting to find that none one of the eight proprietors ever visited Carolina. Lord Anthony Ashley Cooper was the most inflential and passionate supporter of the eight. The Ashley and Cooper Rivers are named for this 1st Earl of Shaftesbury. Ashley Cooper also collaborated with John Locke to write the Fundamental Constitutions of Carolina. When visiting this historic state park you will find the staff here to be helpful and friendly. We wanted to thank Ms. Veronica Robinson for the impeccable customer service she provided from the time we walked through the door. Ms. Robinson told us she had been employed at Charles Towne Landing for 25 years. Her smile and kind demeanor made us glad we chose CTL as our next feature.

    We started out on our adventure along the path leading to our first stop, the Animal Forest. Along the way we saw nine black park benches. We wondered what the significance was to the nine benches when it hit us. The park created a fitting tribute to the nine Charleston firefighters who gave their lives in 2007. We immediately stopped to pay our respects to these brave citizens who gave their lives protecting Charleston’s citizens. Before you enter the Animal Forest you will see an impressive statue by renowned sculptor Peter Wolf  Toth. This massive wood carving called Landing Brave is a tribute to Native Americans in his series titled Trail of the Whispering Giants. As we entered the Animal Forest we could feel ourselves going back in time, viewing animals that were indigenous to South Carolina in 1670. Our first stop was the bird aviary where we saw pelicans, egrets and ibis’. They were fascinating to watch and didn’t seem to mind humans very much. As we walked through the forest we hoped to see the black bear and the river otters, but they must have been napping. We did however see deer, elk, wild turkeys, turkey vultures and bison. If you’ve never seen a bison up close you will be amazed at how massive these animals are.

    Once we returned to the main trail we saw the statue of Cassique of the Kiawah. The Cassique was the “head chief” of the tribe. The Kiawah Indians welcomed the new settlers and protected them from the hostile Westo Tribe. As we continued down the trail we saw the impressive palisade wall that the settlers used for protection. Once inside the walls Maxi got some up close pictures of the indentured servants quarters. Maxi and I also learned of the colonists’ means of punishment as we passed the stocks. Finally our path led us to Old Towne Creek, just several hundred yards off the western side of the Ashley. The landscape was calm and beautiful. Downtown Charleston was in clear view on this sun splashed day.

     There, glistening in the sun was the replica trading vessel Adventure. We climbed aboard the ship and got a brief glimpse of life on the high seas. The historical interpreter did a phenomenal job describing the ship and its capabilities. He was very convincing as a late 17th Century sailor. I enjoy when history comes to life, for he truly made us feel like we were in 1670 Carolina. As someone who loves the history of our beautiful state, Albemarle Point gave me such a sense of pride. As we left the Adventure Maxi and I headed north to see examples of a 17th Century crop garden and a house built of wattle and daub construction. There were many crops growing in the garden, but our favorite was the indigo. To the west of the garden was the Archaeology Exhibit. This outdoor structure showed us how the property was excavated in 1969 and how the palisade wall was accurately restored to its past glory.

    Continuing on we passed live oaks through a forest that led to the famous Avenue of Oaks. A large crew was setting up for a wedding reception under the beautiful canopy of old trees. The Legare-Waring House is the host of many elegant weddings.  I can only imagine the presentation of a reception here. Behind the house is a lagoon surrounded by palmettos, blooming flowers and a  Lowcountry landscape that left us breathless. Minutes later we  made our way back to the visitors center. 

     I am convinced that Charles Towne Landing should be a rite of passage for any South Carolinian, or simply for one who loves history or nature. It was an autumn day to remember on the hallowed grounds where a proud state spent it’s first decade. Come see where our state’s permanent  roots began at Charles Towne Landing State Historic Site. You’ll find it in the the city that knows sweet tea is just another food group, Charleston, South Carolina.

Admission: Adults- $5   S.C. Seniors- $3.25   Children 6-15- $3   Children 5 & Under- FREE

1500 Old Towne Road     Charleston, South Carolina 29407     (843) 852-4200

www.southcarolinaparks.com

To see photos of our trip to Charles Towne Landing State Historic Site visit the photo gallery

Bocci’s Italian Restaurant: 158 Church Street     Charleston, South Carolina 29401     (843) 720-2121

 www.boccis.com

To see photos of Bocci’s and Charleston County click here and to see photos of Charles Towne Landing click here.